THE SUPPLY CHAIN YOU CANNOT SEESUPPLIER ASUPPLIER BYOUR CONTRACT MANUFACTURERYOUR BRANDPRICE UPMOQ UPREFORMULATE?NO LABELON THE CAUSE
Industry TrendsBrand Founders5 min read5 October 2026

BASF Has Bid €10.3bn for Evonik. Two of the Biggest Suppliers of Your Formula's Ingredients May Become One.

Personal Care Insights reported on 29 September that BASF has confirmed exploratory talks to acquire Evonik, with an opening offer of €22.15 per share valuing the equity at €10.3bn and the enterprise at €14.2bn, which Evonik reportedly rejected as too low. Both supply actives, emollients and surfactants that end up in small brands' formulas through contract manufacturers. Consolidation upstream reaches you late, indirectly, and without warning.

SL
Sophie Lansbury

Beauty 2.0 Founder - 20 years in the beauty industry

Your formula has a supply chain you did not choose and cannot see. When it consolidates, the effects reach you as a price increase or a reformulation request from your manufacturer, usually with no explanation attached.

Key takeaway

In brief
Personal Care Insights reported on 29 September 2026 that BASF confirmed early-stage talks to acquire Evonik, a major European supplier of personal care actives, emollients and surfactants. The reported opening offer was €22.15 per share, valuing Evonik's equity at €10.3bn and its enterprise at €14.2bn, around a 29% premium to the share price, which Evonik reportedly rejected as too low. RAG-Stiftung holds 44% of Evonik. BASF shares fell 3.6% after the announcement while Evonik shares rose from €18.07 to €19.84, around 10%. BASF 2025 revenue was €59.7bn. For brands at £500k to £5m the exposure is indirect, arriving through contract manufacturers whose ingredient sourcing is rarely visible to the brands they produce for.
Who this is for
Brand Founders
Main takeaway
Your formula has a supply chain you did not choose and cannot see. When it consolidates, the effects reach you as a price increase or a reformulation request from your manufacturer, usually with no explanation attached.
What to do next
Ask your contract manufacturer one question in writing: which ingredients in our formulas are single-sourced, and from whom. You are not asking them to change anything. You are finding out where a supplier problem would become your problem.

Personal Care Insights reported on 29 September 2026 that BASF has confirmed exploratory talks to acquire Evonik. Source: https://www.personalcareinsights.com/news/basf-evonik-takeover-talks.html.

The reported terms: an opening offer of €22.15 per share, valuing Evonik's equity at €10.3bn and the enterprise at €14.2bn, roughly a 29% premium to the share price. Evonik reportedly rejected it as too low. RAG-Stiftung holds 44% of Evonik. BASF shares fell 3.6% after the announcement and Evonik shares rose from €18.07 to €19.84, around 10%. BASF 2025 revenue was €59.7bn.

Both companies are major suppliers of the materials that make up cosmetic formulations: actives, emollients, surfactants, the functional ingredients that sit between water and the hero claim on your packaging.

Most founders reading this have never bought anything from either. That is exactly why it is worth understanding.

The supply chain you did not choose

A brand at £500k to £5m typically works with a contract manufacturer. You brief a product, they develop or adapt a formula, they source the raw materials, they produce it, you sell it.

The sourcing step is almost entirely invisible to you. You see a formula, a cost per unit and a lead time. You do not see which supplier provides the emulsifier, where the surfactant comes from, or whether the active in your hero product has one credible source or six.

That invisibility is fine while the upstream market is stable. It stops being fine when it consolidates, because the effects arrive at your end disguised as something else.

How upstream consolidation actually reaches you

Rarely as an announcement. Usually as one of four things, none of which comes with an explanation.

A price increase from your manufacturer, presented as general input cost inflation.

A lead time that gets longer, with the reason given as supplier allocation.

A reformulation request, where your manufacturer proposes a substitution for an ingredient they describe as difficult to source, and asks you to approve it.

Or a minimum order quantity that goes up, because your manufacturer is now buying a material in larger lots to secure supply.

That fourth one is the most damaging for a small brand and the least likely to be connected to its cause. A higher minimum on a raw material becomes a higher minimum on your production run, which becomes a larger inventory commitment, which becomes a cash problem a year later.

The question worth asking now

One question, in writing, to your contract manufacturer: which ingredients in our formulas are single-sourced, and from whom.

You are not asking them to change anything, and it is worth saying so when you ask, because the question can otherwise read as the opening of a difficult conversation. You are establishing where the concentration risk sits in products you depend on.

Three outcomes are possible. They answer clearly, which tells you what you need and tells you something good about the relationship. They answer vaguely, which is itself informative. Or they decline, which tells you that a supply problem will reach you as a surprise.

For any ingredient that turns out to be single-sourced and genuinely important to a hero product, the follow-up question is whether a qualified alternative exists and what it would take to validate it. Not to do it now. To know how long it would take if you had to.

Why reformulation is the real cost

The reason this matters more in beauty than in many categories is that substituting a raw material is not a procurement decision. It is a product decision with a regulatory tail.

Change an emulsifier and the texture moves. Change an active's supplier and the specification may differ enough to affect your claim. Any meaningful change potentially means new stability testing, a revised safety assessment, updated documentation in every market you sell in, and possibly an ingredient list change on pack, which means artwork and a print run.

For a brand with a handful of SKUs in two markets that is an expensive quarter. For one with a wide range across several markets it is considerably worse, which connects directly to why range width carries costs that do not appear in a gross margin calculation.

What not to do

Do not try to vertically integrate or source raw materials yourself. At this size you have neither the volume nor the technical function, and attempting it is a distraction that costs more than the risk.

Do not switch manufacturers on the basis of a deal that has not happened. These talks are early, Evonik has reportedly rejected the opening offer, and large chemical mergers attract regulatory scrutiny that can take years and sometimes end in nothing.

And do not assume this is only a large-company problem because the numbers are large. The whole point of a contract manufacturing model is that upstream economics pass through to you. You simply receive them later and without a label.

The plain version

Two of the biggest suppliers of what is in your products are discussing becoming one, and your exposure runs through a manufacturer who has never told you which of them they buy from.

One email establishes where you stand. It is the cheapest piece of supply chain work available to you, and it is worth doing while the question is hypothetical rather than urgent.

Share
SL

Sophie Lansbury

Founder of Beauty 2.0. Nearly 20 years in beauty — from counter to boardroom, indie launches to global houses. Writes about the operational reality of growing beauty brands.

About Sophie
“

You do not buy from these companies and you do depend on them. That combination is what makes upstream consolidation easy to miss and awkward to respond to.

Oliko tästä hyötyä?

Related posts

WHAT GETS YOU THE SHELFRETAILER BEAUTY FIXTUREPRODUCTBEAUTY BRANDPRODUCTLIFESTYLE BRAND + ITS AUDIENCEFOOTFALL WINS TIES
Industry TrendsBrand FoundersUK5 min read

Sweaty Betty and Bella Freud Both Launched Beauty Through Boots This Month. Neither Is a Beauty Brand.

Global Cosmetics News reported Sweaty Betty's Beauty and Wellness Collection on 21 September and Bella Freud's Glamorama collection on 25 September, both launching exclusively through Boots. Two adjacent-category brands entering beauty through the same retailer in the same week is a pattern rather than a coincidence, and it says something uncomfortable about what a retailer values when choosing who to back.

27 Sept 2026Read →
MINORITY 2022, MAJORITY 202620222026MINORITY STAKEMAJORITY STAKEFOUR YEARSDISTRIBUTION, NOT JUST CASHFOUNDER KEEPS EQUITY AND THE CHAIR
Industry TrendsBrand FoundersEU5 min read

Caudalie Took a Minority Stake in Talm in 2022 and the Majority in 2026. The Founder Kept Equity and Stayed CEO.

Global Cosmetics News reported on 15 September that Caudalie has acquired a majority stake in French skincare brand Talm, its first ever acquisition of another brand. Founder Kenza Keller retains a minority stake and continues as chief executive. Talm has 12 products across roughly 60 doors in 12 countries. The four-year path from minority investment to majority is a deal shape that suits brands at exactly this size, and most founders have never considered it.

20 Sept 2026Read →
HOW FAST ONE TONNE ARRIVES1 TONNE / YR20,000X 50ML4,000X 250MLKNOW YOUR EU TONNAGE BY MARKET
Industry TrendsBrand FoundersEU5 min read

Beiersdorf Says Europe Is Overburdening Beauty. The Rule Small Brands Should Check Is the One-Tonne Line in the Wastewater Levy.

In a dpa interview published on 13 September, Beiersdorf chief executive Vincent Warnery warned that Europe's cosmetics industry risks becoming 'the next auto industry' under regulatory pressure, and singled out the revised Urban Wastewater Treatment Directive, which makes cosmetics and pharmaceutical producers pay for removing micropollutants from wastewater. The levy is under legal challenge, and an Advocate General has recommended annulling it. For a smaller brand selling into the EU, the detail that matters is the exemption for products placed on the market below one tonne a year, which is a lower line than many founders assume.

13 Sept 2026Read →